Top-flite TOPA0135 User Manual download pdf (Page 12)

❏ 19. Cut another piece of 1/16" cross-grain

sheeting 2-1/2" long and glue it between the S1

ribs as you did in step 12. Add four 1/4" x 1/2" x 1"

Hinge Blocks to the inside of the stab trailing

edged as shown in the plans. The outer hinge

blocks will need to be trimmed to match the height

and contour of the stab TE.

❏ 20. Inspect all glue joints and add CA where

necessary. Glue the bottom stab skins just as you

did the top. A good glue joint here is important, so

apply a generous bead of thick or medium CA to

all the upward facing edges of the structure.

Remember: Residual accelerator can cause the

CA to cure prematurely. Be careful not to add

any twist in the stab as you apply the skins.

❏ 21. Use a sanding block to true up the tips of

the stab and elevators and to remove the

remnants of the ribs from the leading edges of the

elevators and the trailing edge of the stab.

IMPORTANT: Round the LE of the stab to match

the cross section on the plan.

❏ 22. Glue a 3/16" x 1" x 11-7/8" balsa Leading

Edge Cap to each elevator LE then trim to match

the length of the elevator LE. Use a razor plane,

then a sanding block to blend the top and bottom

of the leading edge cap to the skins. Round the

inboard ends to match the elevator LE.

❏ 23. Tack glue three 1/32" scrap plywood shims

to the leading edge of each elevator, then tack

glue each elevator to the stabilizer with a drop of

CA on the shims. Make sure the outboard tips are

flush by sanding the edges with a sanding block

if required.

❏ 24. Noting their orientation on the plans, glue

the shaped 5/8" thick balsa Stabilizer Tips

simultaneously to the stab and elevator.

❏ 25. Use a razor plane and a sanding block to

shape and round the tips. Refer to the cross

section on the plans frequently during this process.

❏ 26. Separate the elevators from the stabilizer by

cutting the tips with a razor saw and breaking

away the tack glued 1/32" plywood shims.

Hint: Hold the razor saw close to the leading edge

of the elevators while cutting. Use a long sanding

block and 150-grit sandpaper to true the tips with

the leading edges of the elevators and the trailing

edges of the stabilizer.

SHAPING BALSA BLOCKS

The long carving blade in a heavy duty handle (A)

is the best tool to create the rough shape as a

large amount of wood can be easily removed.

Once the blocks are “roughed in,” use a razor

plane (B) to fine tune the shape. Finally, #50

coarse, #150 medium and #220 fine sandpaper on

an Easy-Touch Bar Sander will smooth out the

lines and flat spots. Don’t try to shave too much

wood at one time and inspect your progress

frequently. You can always remove wood, but it’s

difficult to put it back.

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LE Cap

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Top-flite TOPA0135 User Manual Page 12

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