Top-flite TOPA0135 User Manual Page 30

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❏❏10. Hold the dihedral gauge near the middle
of W-1 and lightly tack glue the rib to the top and
bottom main spars. Do not glue the dowel plate
until told to do so.
❏❏11. Move the dihedral gauge near the trailing
edge of the rib, then using the same technique, set
the angle and position of W-1. Glue the rib to the
aft outer spar.
❏❏12. Use a spacer (such as one of the dihedral
braces or a flap hatch cover) to position the dowel
plate 1/16" in front of the main spars. Glue the
dowel plate to ribs W-1 and W-2.
❏❏13. Glue a die-cut 1/8" plywood Dowel Plate
(FWD) in the notches of ribs W-1 and W-2.
❏❏14. Cut the shaped balsa Leading Edge to
the correct length as shown on the plans and
carefully bevel the ends. Center the leading edge
vertically on the front edge of the ribs, then glue it
to ribs W-2 through W-11.
❏❏15. Skip this step if you are NOT going to
build the optional flaps.
Please consider this
strongly the flaps are not at all difficult to build
and they really add to the flight realism and make
landings lots of fun.
Place the die-cut 3/32" balsa
Flap Root Rib W-2F next to W-2 as shown on
the plans. Slip three layers of waxed paper
between W-2 and W-2F up to the “V” notch then
glue W-2F to W-2 forward of the V notch.
❏❏16. Trial fit the tapered 18" Flap Spar into the
“V” notches just behind the aft inner spar and cut it
to fit from W-1 to W-7. Make sure it fits all the way
down into the notches so the upward facing
surface is flush with the ribs. Make adjustments to
the notches if necessary then glue the spar
into position.
❏❏17. Make two Flap Servo Hatch Supports
and two Aileron (or releasable drop tank) Servo
Rails from two of the 1/4" x 3/8" spar cut-offs, then
glue them to the notches in the ribs. If you don’t
plan on using flaps, fill the notches with scrap balsa
(or you could install the rails anyway).
FLAP SPAR
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